Thursday, December 11, 2014

Besiktas FC

Besiktas 1 Tottenham Hotspur 0 - UEFA Europa League, Group Stage

Istanbul is the largest city in Turkey, constituting the country's economic, cultural, and historical heart. Its commercial and historical centre lies in the European part of Eurasia, while about a third of its population lives in the Asian part. With a population of 14.1 million, the city forms the largest urban agglomeration in Europe as well as the largest in the Middle East, and the sixth-largest city proper in the world. Founded on the Sarayburnu promontory around 660 BC as Byzantium, the city now known as Istanbul developed to become one of the most significant cities in history. For nearly sixteen centuries following its reestablishment as Constantinople in 330 AD, it served as the capital of four empires: the Roman Empire (330–395), the Byzantine Empire (395–1204 and 1261–1453), the Latin Empire (1204–1261), and the Ottoman Empire (1453–1922). Istanbul is located in north-western Turkey within the Marmara Region on a total area of 5,343 square kilometers. The Bosphorus, which connects the Sea of Marmara to the Black Sea, divides the city into a European, Thracian side—comprising the historic and economic centres—and an Asian, Anatolian side. The city is further divided by the Golden Horn, a natural harbour bounding the peninsula where the former Byzantium and Constantinople were founded.

Blue Mosque
Beşiktaş Jimnastik Kulübü (Beşiktaş Gymnastics Club), known as Beşiktaş, is a Turkish sports club. The club's football team is the first and one of the major teams in Turkey, having never been relegated to a lower division. The professional sports club, founded in 1903, is based in the Beşiktaş district of Istanbul, Turkey. Beşiktaş Gymnastics Club established the first sport club of Turkey in 1903. The club competes in numerous branches including football, basketball, volleyball, handball, athletics, boxing, wrestling, chess, bridge, gymnastics, rowing, table tennis, paralympic sports and beach football. The home ground of Beşiktaş was the İnönü Stadium with a seating capacity of 32,086, however this has been shut down in order for the Vodafone Arena to be opened on the same land.

In the meantime the club are temporarily based at the Atatürk Olympic Stadium located in İkitelli, a district in the western outskirts of Istanbul. It is the largest-capacity stadium of Turkey. The stadium is named after Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder and first President of the Republic of Turkey. Its construction began in 1999 and was completed in 2002. It was built for Turkey's failed bid for the 2008 Olympic Games that were ultimately awarded to Beijing. With its 76,092 (all-seater) capacity and Olympic size, it was granted the "5-star sports complex" title by the UEFA in 2004, enabling it to host the finals of UEFA events. The 2005 UEFA Champions League Final between Milan and Liverpool was played at the Atatürk Olympic Stadium on 25 May 2005.

Istanbul appears to have changed a bit since my previous visit (also to watch Spurs play at Besiktas) in 2006 - if anything the place has developed and has a bit more of a western feel to it. The best example I can provide to back up my thoughts on this are the excellent public transport links which are certainly more joined up. That said, the traffic in and around Istanbul is extremely busy day and night!

For the 20:00 kick off, our coaches were scheduled to leave the centre at 16:45. This early departure was necessary to counter the hectic Istanbul rush hour traffic. It took the full duration of a football match to reach the stadium and this was only possible as we had a police escort and made good use of the motorway hard shoulder!

For a relatively new stadium, I found this place rather disappointing. Although there is a modern feel about the venue, it is disjointed and appears to be incomplete. The section allocated to away fans was extremely poor with sub standard catering facilities available through a fence!

There was a fifteen minute delay during the first half when the floodlights failed. I'm not sure if this is a regular occurrence but on 90 minutes it happened again. We therefore had to wait to play out the 3 minutes of time added on at the end of the match. Besiktas won a poor match 1-0 to ensure that they top the group ahead of Spurs. The journey back to the centre also took a while, it being midnight before we arrived back near the Blue Mosque.

Admission: 40 Lira (the home supporters at the opposite end paid 25 Lira)
Attendance: 19,511
Programme: None issued

Saturday, November 15, 2014

Hibernian FC

Hibernian 0 Queen of the South 0 - Scottish Championship

Edinburgh is the capital city of Scotland, situated in Lothian on the southern shore of the Firth of Forth. It is the second most populous city in Scotland and the seventh most populous in the United Kingdom. Edinburgh has been recognised as the capital of Scotland since at least the 15th century, but political power moved south to London after the Union of the Crowns in 1603 and the Union of Parliaments in 1707. After nearly three centuries of unitary government, a measure of self-government returned in the shape of the devolved Scottish Parliament, which officially opened in Edinburgh in 1999. The city is also the annual venue of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland and home to many national institutions such as the National Museum of Scotland, the National Library of Scotland and the Scottish National Gallery. Edinburgh's relatively buoyant economy, traditionally centred on banking and insurance, but now encompassing a wide range of businesses, makes it the biggest financial centre in the UK after London. Many Scottish companies have established their head offices in the city. Although Edinburgh's traditional industries of printing, brewing and distilling continued to grow in the 19th century and were joined by new rubber works and engineering works there was little industrialisation compared with other cities in Britain. By 1821, Edinburgh had been overtaken by Glasgow as Scotland's largest city. The city centre between Princes Street and George Street became a major commercial and shopping district, a development partly stimulated by the arrival of railways in the 1840s. In 1998, the Scotland Act, which came into force the following year, established a devolved Scottish Parliament and Scottish Executive (renamed the Scottish Government since September 2007). Both based in Edinburgh, they are responsible for governing Scotland while reserved matters such as defence, taxation and foreign affairs remain the responsibility of the Parliament of the United Kingdom in London.

Hibernian Football Club is located in Leith in the north of Edinburgh. The club was founded in 1875 by Irishmen from the Cowgate area of Edinburgh. The name is derived from Hibernia, the Roman name for Ireland. Home matches are played at the Easter Road stadium, in use since 1893, when the club joined the Scottish Football League. Hibernian was the first club from the east coast of Scotland to win a major trophy, the 1887 Scottish Cup.  Hibernian have won the Scottish League Championship four times, most recently in 1952. Three of those four championships were won between 1948 and 1952, when the club had the services of The Famous Five, a notable forward line. The club have won the Scottish Cup twice, in 1887 and 1902; but have lost ten Scottish Cup Finals since, most recently in 2013. The last major trophy won by the club was the 2007 Scottish League Cup, when Kilmarnock were beaten 5–1 in the final. It was the third time that the club had won the League Cup, also winning in 1972 and 1991.

This Pieman attempted to visit Easter Road 25 years ago but was thwarted by last minute engineering work on the railways. For many reasons in the interim period, plans to reach Leith have been thwarted and so it was with a feeling of hope that I set of for Edinburgh on the 08.00 departure from Kings Cross. The carriage was populated by a large group of New Zealand Rugby Union supporters who were on their way to Murrayfield for the international match with Scotland. Although these lads were enthusiastic and at times a bit loud, they were no trouble at all and it was good to listen to the banter.

The walk from Waverley to Easter Road takes between 20-25 minutes. This means that for a traditional 3pm kick off, the 17.30 train to London Kings Cross should not be an issue after the match. En route there are a number of pubs and eating establishments, either near the centre or on Easter Road itself. I opted for The Playfair (Wetherspoons) where the Highland Burger with Haggis and Chips was a welcome treat. This was washed down with a superb pint of Merlin (4.2%) from the Broughton Brewery. This deep golden pale ale has a clean tasting, refreshing malt flavour, overlaid with a strong fruit hop character. With triple the hops of a normal bitter.

Easter Road is a very modern stadium, with four seated stands affording a good view of proceedings. Like many new or redeveloped grounds, the comfortable surrounds are good, but lack individual character. If I had arrived in Leith 25 years ago, I would have experienced a venue more akin to the history of Hibernian FC.

This match saw 4th placed Hibernian host Queen of the South. A victory by two clear goals would have seen Hibernian go 3rd in the table above the visitors who were currently occupying that spot. Accordingly, there was potential to witness a really good match. Unfortunately this was not the case and despite best intentions, a defensive Dumfries outfit and a disjointed Hibernian side played out a 0-0 draw. The home side missed a very good scoring opportunity in the closing minutes when a lack of composure saw the ball lifted over the bar, not quite reaching this Pieman in the upper tier of the Famous Five Stand.

The match was not the classic hoped for, but the day out was good. It was nice to complete my ‘Edinburgh set’, adding to previous visits to Heart of Midlothian and Meadowbank Thistle – a reminder of the latter being the stadium floodlights visible from Easter Road. The train journey home was good reaching Kings Cross on time at 22:18.

Attendance: 10,069
Admission: £22:00
Programme: £4:00 (52 pages) - Special edition to commemorate the Great War

Thursday, November 06, 2014

Asteras Tripolis FC

Asteras Tripolis 1 Tottenham Hotspur 2 - UEFA Europa League, Group Stage

Tripoli is a city in the central part of the Peloponnese, in Greece. It is the capital of the Peloponnese region as well as of the regional unit of Arcadia. Before the Greek War of Independence, under the Ottoman name of "Tripoliçe", it served as one of the Ottoman administrative centres in the Peloponnese and had large Muslim and Jewish populations. Tripoli is surrounded by thickly wooded mountains on all sides, the tallest and closest of which is Mount Mainalon to the northwest. Tripoli is mainly accessed from Athens and the rest of Greece through the Corinth-Tripoli-Kalamata motorway, known as the Moreas Motorway. Tripoli is home to the two largest Armed Forces bootcamp centres of Greece, one for the Hellenic Army and one for the Hellenic Air Force. Tripoli is the seat of the recently founded University of the Peloponnese with two departments of the Sciences and Technology School and one department of the Economics and Administration School.

The football club was founded in 1931, in the area near Tripoli's railway station and was formally recognised. However, the club stayed inactive and during 1932 all football clubs in Tripoli were temporarily dissolved. At the same time, Minas Tsavdaris founded a football club and named it "Keramikos" after his home area. Despite his efforts, Keramikos was never formally recognised, and in 1938 Tsavdaris decided to transfer all of the club's players to Asteras Tripolis, which was still legally recognised. This signified the revival of the club and Asteras managed to compete in the inaugural season (1939–40) of the regional Arcadian League. However, the subsequent German occupation of Greece ended all league competitions abruptly and the club was dissolved once again. After World War II, Asteras was reformed under the name Neos Asteras. The team won consecutive promotions and managed to play for two seasons in the Greek Second Division (1961–1963), thus becoming the first team from Tripoli to ever participate in such a high division. In the summer of 1963, Asteras merged with Aris–Atromitos and the new team was named Athlitikos Omilos Tripolis. The new club continued its activities until 1968, when it was dissolved once again. Asteras was reformed again in 1978. The club participated in the regional Arcadian League until 2003. In 2001 the club entered a new era and led an outstanding streak of performances. They remained unbeaten at home for over 5 years and they managed to move up four divisions, earning the promotion for the Greek Super League as Second Division champions on 12 May 2007.

The remote nature of Tripoli encouraged us to travel a little earlier than usual, staying in Athens before undertaking the two hour coach journey to Tripoli the following morning. I had some naïve vision about sitting on a bus surrounded by goats and chickens as we left the sprawling mass that is Athens. However, the truth is that this was a comfortable coach and the journey was made along decent motorways. I also had not appreciated how many mountains we would encounter and this continued throughout the journey.

Tripoli is a very friendly place and without exception the people that I encountered were welcoming and proud that football had brought visitors to their city. It is a relatively small place and I doubt it would take long to walk from one side to the other. That said there are a number of interesting bars and restaurants to be visited. Tripoli is a mixture of old and new with our hotel belonging to the latter category.

The afternoon of the day before the match, we ventured out to the ground. Situated on the edge of town it takes around twenty minutes to walk to Stadio Theodoros Kolokotronis. The walk involves crossing the single track railway line close by Tripoli railway station. Passenger services from Athens no longer run as a result of the current economic situation in Greece. We were able to gain access to the ground and some daylight photographs were taken. We were also given a guided tour of the stadium, which was a nice touch.

The stadium has cover behind one goal (home end) and along one of the sides. The other side is open with the club administrative areas housed beneath. The away end is open with an enormous fence separating spectators from the playing area. For the match the host club kindly distributed match programmes. However, in the away section these were placed on wet seats!  Not easy as I don’t think it had been raining on the day of the match!

The match saw Spurs take a two goal lead at half time, only to give a very disjointed display in the second period. Asteras had plenty of opportunities to score but were limited in the end to a very late strike from a very dubiously awarded penalty. The atmosphere in the stadium did not match the intensity of previous matches witnessed in this part of Europe and perhaps the fans are still getting used to participating at this level of competition.

Admission: 20 Euros
Attendance: 5130
Programme: Free (24 pages)

Saturday, October 25, 2014

Buckingham AthletIc FC

Buckingham Athletic 2 Crawley Green 3 - Spartan South Midlands League, Division One

Buckingham is a town in north Buckinghamshire, close to the borders of Northamptonshire and Oxfordshire. Buckingham was declared the county town of Buckinghamshire in the 10th century when it was made the capital of the newly formed shire of Buckingham until Aylesbury took over this role early in the 18th century. In the 7th century, Buckingham, literally "meadow of Bucca's people" is said to have been founded by Bucca, the leader of the first Anglo Saxon settlers. The first settlement was located around the top of a loop in the River Great Ouse, presently the Hunter Street campus of the University of Buckingham. The town suffered from a significant fire that raged through the town centre on 15 March 1725, with the result that many of the main streets of the town were destroyed including Castle Street, Castle Hill and the north side of Market Hill. The result was 138 dwellings being consumed in the fire. The current fine range of Georgian architecture in these streets today is as a direct result of that fire, but the immediate aftermath was difficult for the town. Collections were made in surrounding towns such as Aylesbury and Wendover to help those made homeless and by 1730 had rebuilt only a third of the homes. Buckingham was served by the Buckingham Arm of the Grand Junction Canal from 1801 to 1932, and the canal was finally abandoned in 1964. The canal ran from Cosgrove, Northamptonshire to the centre of Buckingham to a wharf. Buckingham had a railway station on the Banbury to Verney Junction Branch Line and ran from 1850 to 1964. The closest stations are currently Wolverton and Milton Keynes Central to the east and Bicester North and Bicester Town to the south west.

Buckingham Athletic FC was formed in 1933 as Buckingham Juniors, but it was three years before a ground was found, allowing the club to enter the Brackley and District League. When they got their ground it was originally called Timm's Meadow, later changing its name to Stratford Fields. In 1939 the club changed its name to Buckingham Athletic FC. It took the club 27 years to win their first piece of Silverware, winning the North Bucks League Shield in the 1960–61 season. They joined the Hellenic League Division One for the 1965–66 season, and at the end of this season they managed to win the Bucks Junior Cup. After three more seasons, the club gained promotion to the Premier Division. They stayed in the Premier Division for three seasons, during this period picking up the Buckingham Senior Charity Cup, before being relegated back to Division one. For Seven more seasons they remained in Division One before leaving the Hellenic League and dropping down a level to the North Bucks & District Football League for the start of the 1979–80 season. The time spent in the North Bucks league was rewarded with the NBL Premier Division Shield in the 1983–84 season, and the North Bucks & District League Championship a season later, winning it while remaining undefeated. At the start of the 1985–86 season the club joined the South Midlands League Division One, and were champions of the division at the end of the season. However the club had to wait another five seasons before it was promoted to the Premier Division, when they finished as Runners-up in the 1990–91 season, as their ground had mnot previously met league requirements. The club stayed in the top division of the South Midlands League, and then the Spartan South Midlands League, when the South Midlands League merged with the London Spartan league, for eight seasons.

This was the Pieman’s second visit to a match in Buckingham. The first occasion being Buckingham Town v Forest Green Rovers at Forde Meadow in October 1996. On that occasion I travelled by train to Bletchley and then by bus to Buckingham. This time I was offered a lift and the journey via M25, M1 and A5 enabled us to arrive at Stratford Fields in good time for this 3pm kick off. There was a fun fair just down the road and the club car park was full. However, we managed to find a space in a nearby street.

The clubhouse is outside the enclosed area and I opted to pay admission and obtain programmes before entering the ground. The very reasonable admission price encouraged me to look to spend money in the clubhouse before the match. Although real ale was not available (the club is looking into this) I enjoyed a bottle of Ringwood Forty Niner. There was a friendly atmosphere in the bar area and preparations were also underway for a private function to be held that evening. This building also hosts the toilet facilities for the ground.

The ground is bordered on two sides by a public park and a number of dog walkers appear to time their Saturday afternoon activity to coincide with the football as they can get a really good view of the match from the park. However, At £3:50 including a match programme, they might want to consider supporting their local club from inside the ground for the price of a pint! Another side of the pitch houses a covered seated (benches) stand which can accommodate standing. This structure would be the only shelter in adverse weather conditions. Behind the stand are the changing facilities. The remaining end of the ground has a training area backing on to the car park.

This match was played on a lovely sunny autumn afternoon. Buckingham Athletic had been struggling recently and changed their formation for this match. The first half was particularly good for them as they seized control and scored two goals without reply. At half time we enjoyed tea in the clubhouse and a nice touch was that the gentlemen serving did so from a tea pot. Sounds daft but so often these days you are issued with a cup with hot water poured on a tea bag and you have to finish making it yourself – a nice touch, well done Buckingham Athletic!

Unfortunately for the home side it was visitors Crawley Green that enjoyed the majority of the second period, scoring via a brave header over the keeper, a fine turn and shot and a great solo effort. These three strikes were enough to secure the points. On reflection I think a draw would have been a fair result but credit to the visitors for coming back so well. Stratford Fields was a nice setting for this match. The weather was kind and the match was played in good spirit. Our journey home was trouble free and once again the Spartan South Midlands League provided good Saturday entertainment.

Attendance: 47
Admission: £3:50
Programme: Free with Admission (20 pages)
Tea: 70p (from a teapot!)

Saturday, October 11, 2014

Kendal Town FC

Kendal Town 4 Harrogate Railway Athletic 3 - Northern Premier League, Division One North

Kendal, previously known as Kirkby in Kendal or Kirkby Kendal, is a market town and civil parish within the South Lakeland District of Cumbria. Historically in Westmorland, it is 22 miles north of Lancaster and 50 miles south of Carlisle, on the River Kent. It is the third largest settlement in Cumbria, behind Carlisle and Barrow in Furness. Kendal is known for Kendal mint cake, a glucose-based type of confectionery reputedly discovered accidentally by Joseph Wiper during his search for a clear glacier mint. Used on numerous expeditions to mountaintops (including Mount Everest and K2) and both poles of the Earth, its popularity is mainly due to the very astute decision of the original manufacturer's great nephew to market it as an energy food, and to supply Ernest Shackleton's 1914–17 Trans-Antarctic Expedition. By the time the business was sold to competitor Romney's in 1987 there were several rival mint cake producers, many of which are still in business. Kendal's early prosperity was based largely on cloth manufacture. In the 19th century Kendal became a centre for the manufacture of snuff and shoes; the K Shoes company remained a major employer in the town until its factory closed in 2003. Kendal's buildings, mostly constructed with the local grey limestone, have earned it the nickname the Auld Grey Town. 

Kendal Town FC was established in 1919 as Netherfield AFC by employees of the K Shoes factory. In 1945 they joined the Lancashire Combination, and were runners-up in their first season. They also reached the first round of the FA Cup, losing to Barrow. They won the Lancashire Combination title in 1948–49, a season in which they again reached the first round of the FA Cup, this time losing to Gateshead. In 1968 they were amongst the founders of the Northern Premier League. They finished bottom of the league in 1973–74 and 1976–77, but avoided relegation on both occasions. During the 1980–81 season they played seven matches against Bridlington Trinity in the second qualifying round of the FA Trophy before finally prevailing in the sixth replay. The repeated rematches cost the club £1,800, and the financial problems together with them finishing bottom of the league in 1981–82 and 1982–83 led to them moving down to the North West Counties League. The club returned to the Northern Premier League when it added a new Division One in 1987. In 1998 they were renamed Netherfield Kendal, before adopting their current name two years later.

Kendal Castle

The original intention was to visit Scotland to take in the match between Annan Athletic and Arbroath. However, rather late in the day, this plan was scuppered as Arbroath were to play at Montrose in a cup replay. This left Annan and this Pieman without a match. With advance train tickets already purchased it was a case of “where can I go?”. Carlisle United v Stevenage would have been an easy alternative, but I do prefer to visit somewhere new. Kendal Town’s Parkside Road soon became my preference and the 07:30 departure from London Euston was to be used. However, this train is fine for getting to Carlisle for onward travel to Annan but does not stop at Oxenholme. It seemed likely that a further £8:00 would be payable from Lancaster, although this Pieman was considering “other options”. On arrival in Preston, Virgin Trains announced that our service would not be going forward. We had to alight there and catch the next service. Our Edinburgh bound service was stopping at Oxenholme – problem solved!

A late morning arrival at Oxenholme was followed by a decent stroll down the hill to the town of Kendal. The Windermere branch line offers a different option and there are also buses connecting Oxenholme with Kendal. Our first point of call was to be The Miles Thompson (Wetherspoons) where an early lunch was washed down with Lakeland Gold (4.4%) from the Hawkshead Brewery. This refreshing, well hopped, fruity and bitter golden ale has complex fruit flavours from the blending of English hop, First Gold, with the outrageously fruity American hop, Cascade. En route to have a look at Kendal Castle, we chanced upon Burgundy’s Wine Bar and Brewhouse. This venue also houses a microbrewery (Kendal Brewery). The quirky bar alone is in itself worth a visit. The impressive range of ales is complimented by a selection of bottled beers from across the continent. This Pieman delighted in Dr Manning’s Red (5.7%) from the Kendal Brewery - a smooth and rich Red Windsor Ale that is full of flavour with just a hint of coffee.

It was a steep climb up to Kendal Castle but worth it to see the ruins of what must have been a very impressive structure in its day. The views from this location, of Kendal and the surrounding area, are spectacular. From the castle it is a relatively short walk to the football ground following a couple of well worn footpaths along the side of graveyards. On arrival at the ground with about 45 minutes to go before the match, we were able to take some photographs and chat to some of the club officials, all of whom were friendly and welcoming.

This venue is extremely well cared for with much of the surroundings sporting the club colours of black and white. There are three seated covered stands. Two along the main side and one behind the goal backing on to the clubhouse and bar/function room. The bar sells local real ales (more on that later). On the other side of the pitch, opposite the two covered stands, is another covered terraced area and some uncovered terracing. This ground offers many different vantage points, all of which provide a good take on the match action.

The match was very entertaining as the scoreline suggests. There were periods of dominance by both sides and the drama continued right to the end with a flurry of late goals. The match was played in good spirit by both sides and as a neutral I certainly felt I had had value for money. I would recommend this venue to anyone interested in classic stadiums and you would be sure to receive a friendly welcome. Hot food (Pie, Peas, Gravy an option) is also available pitchside and the function area upstairs also caters for hungry fans. Before the match this Pieman enjoyed a pint of Old School (3.9%) from the Winster Valley Brewery, a full tasting pale ale with floral aromas on the finish. After the match a pint of Kendal Gold (4.3%) from the Kendal Brewery wrapped up a very pleasant afternoon. The club reduces the price of ales on matchdays in an attempt to attract support. The walk back to Oxenholme Station was interrupted by a brief excursion to the 'Wee Chippy' on Natland Road before catching the 18:26 back to Euston. The Stevenage team including 55 year old substitute goalkeeper Dave Beasant, was also on our train home! We arrived in London ten minutes early!

Attendance: 181
Admission: £8:00
Programme: £2:00 (52 pages)
Tea: £1:00

Thursday, September 18, 2014

FK Partizan

FK Partizan 0 Tottenham Hotspur 0 - UEFA Europa League, Group Stage

Belgrade is the capital and largest city of Serbia. Belgrade lies 116.75 metres above sea level and is located at the confluence of the Sava and Danube Rivers, where the Pannonian Plain meets the Balkans.The First World War began on 28 July 1914 when Austria-Hungary declared war on Serbia. Most of the subsequent Balkan offensives occurred near Belgrade. Austro-Hungarian monitors shelled Belgrade on 29 July 1914, and it was taken by the Austro-Hungarian Army under General Oskar Potiorek on 30 November. On 15 December, it was re-taken by Serbian troops under Marshal Radomir Putnik. After a prolonged battle, which destroyed much of the city, between 6 and 9 October 1915, Belgrade fell to German and Austro-Hungarian troops commanded by Field Marshal August von Mackensen on 9 October 1915. The city was liberated by Serbian and French troops on 1 November 1918, under the command of Marshal Louis Franchet d'Espérey of France and Crown Prince Alexander of Serbia. Belgrade is home to ethnic groups from all over the former Yugoslavia. Many people came to the city as economic migrants from smaller towns and the countryside, while hundreds of thousands arrived as refugees from Croatia, Bosnia-Herzegovina and Kosovo, as a result of the Yugoslav wars of the 1990s. Between 10,000 and 20,000 Chinese are estimated to live in Belgrade; they began immigrating in the mid-1990s. Block 70 in New Belgrade is known colloquially as the Chinese quarter. Many Middle Easterners, mainly from Syria, Iran, Jordan and Iraq, arrived in order to pursue their studies during the 1970s and 1980s, and have remained in the city.

Fudbalski klub Partizan, commonly known as Partizan Belgrade or simply Partizan, is based in Belgrade, Serbia. It forms a major part of the Partizan Sports Association. The club plays in the Serbian SuperLiga and has spent its entire history in the top tier of Yugoslav and Serbian football. It is the second-most successful club in Serbia. Partizan was founded by young high officers of the Yugoslav People's Army (JNA) in 1945 in Belgrade, as part of the Yugoslav Sports Association Partizan. Their home ground is the Stadion Partizana in Belgrade, where they have played since 1949.

The Pieman’s first visit to Serbia was always going to be an interesting experience. On arrival at Belgrade, I made my way to the hotel I had booked. The location was a little way out of town but I decided to walk and take in the sights. Within a few hundred yards of the Danube the hotel looked good. However, on arrival I was informed that it was a little too close to the river and there had been some flooding. To address my situation the hotel arranged for me to stay at their sister hotel on the other side of the city and paid for a taxi. Ironically the new hotel was fifteen minutes walk from Stadion Partizana.

The evening prior to match day I ventured into the City Centre and after a glass of the local Lav beer, I bumped into Mr Throp – a like-minded gentleman with a passion for quality beer. We made our way to a branch of The Black Turtle, where we enjoyed a few glasses of their homebrew stout – this proved to be an exceptionally good choice in a city where bland lager type beers are the norm. I invested in a taxi to return to my hotel, an easy experience once I had asked the driver if he knew the area where there is a large metal giraffe in the middle of a roundabout!

On the morning of the match, I ventured to the stadium, gaining access to take a few photographs and taking a tour of the cluttered but impressive trophy room. The stadium is an all seated venue and is mainly uncovered. The capacity is 32,710. From the city centre, trolleybus routes 40 and 41 run direct.

Tottenham Hotspur fans arrive at the Stadium

It has to be reported that the match was not one that will live in the memory. The most entertaining aspect was being able to watch and listen to the Partizan fans at the other end of the ground. I do wonder sometimes if these people watch the match but they certainly create an atmosphere!

We were locked in the stadium for an hour after the match (not an unusual experience in European competition) whilst the home fans dispersed. So another Europa League Group Stage has kicked off for Spurs. It will be interesting to see what treats this disjointed competition has in store this time!

Admission: 800:00 dinar but given free by Tottenham Hotspur!
Programme: Folded Card - no cover price but selling for 300 dinar by the opportunist club shop!
Attendance: 20,000